When water with an acid PH (below 7.0) is passed through the specially processed hardbead-like magnesia filter bed the PH value is increased to 7.0 or slightly higher. By neutralizing the free carbon dioxide in water, the red water tendency is corrected and renders it less corrosive and stable. Neutralizing filters have application in water treatment problems involving iron removal where a PH increase is desired. The filter bed is basically a Calcite/Magnesia oxide which is soluble in proportion to the acidity of the water.

It is necessary to replenish the bed periodically.

Q-"How do I know if my water is acidic?
A-The signs of acidic water (if you have copper tubing) are blue or green stains in the bottom of your sink or tub. If these appear or if you suspect you have acidic water, then a simple pH test will tell you if your water is acidic or not. You can get a pH test kit at most any pool supply store. If your water has a pH of less then 7 then it is considered acidic and should be treated.

Q-"How often will I have to add neutralizing media?"
A-It depends on how acidic your water is, and the amount of water that you use. It's best to re-check your pH level once every six-twelve  months. A low priced pool pH test kit is usually all that you will need. When the pH level starts to drop then it's time to add media. Some customers don't have to add any media for a few years and some need to add it in about 12  months. When your neutralizer starts to not neutralize as much, it's probably time to add media.

Q-How easy is it to install one of the acid neutralizers?"
A-For a handy person generally it isn't too hard. You do need access to a drain and you should place the acid neutralizer in a place near your well tank or water main. We have an instructions page below that you can read.



The filter medium is a granular surface. When water containing suspended matter is passing through the filter unit the solids are removed throughout the filter bed.
Periodic back washing flushes out accumulated sediment or dirt and regrades the filter bed.The filter medium is not consumed in the sediment removal process.

No special conditions necessary for proper use.



The black granular high quality filter carbon is distinguished by its rugged grain structure and high porosity. This highly porous internal structure efficiently absorbs and retains taste, odor, and colorcomponents from water as it passes through the filter bed. (Area of porosity = 3,000,000 sq. in. per lb. of activated carbon) A very common problem is that of chloro-organic compounds which are produced by the chlorination of a water supply for bacterial kill. These chloro-organiccompounds impart tastes and odors which are much stronger than residual chlorine, howeverthey are removed along with the free chlorine residual by passing the water through an activated charcoal filter. Periodic back washing is necessary to eliminate the accumulated suspended matter and regrade the filter bed. It is necessary to replace the carbon filter bed when the capacity for taste and odors is exhausted.


1. Water to be filtered should preferably be free of suspended matter.

2. The water to be filtered should be relatively free of iron for maximum service life in taste, odor, chlorine and color removal.

3. In installation where a water softener is also in the system, the carbon AFC  filter should follow the water softener.

Q-"Lately I have noticed a sulphur smell in my water?"
A-If you notice the smell only in your hot water then most likely your water heater is the culprit. In many electric water heaters the sacrificial anode rod is made of magnesium. The rod is design to draw minerals, calcium, Hardness etc. To increase the life of the heater. As the anode rod breaks down (which is what it is designed to do), it can create hydrogen sulfide. A magnesium rod can be replaced with an aluminum rod to eliminate this problem. It can also be caused by sulphate-reducing bacteria which thrive in the warm environment present in a water heater. To reduce the bacteria, you may need to add chlorine or hydrogen peroxide into the tank (approx. 1 pint/40 gallons of water), re-pressurize it,run 2-3 gallons of hot water at each fixture and then let it set for at least one hour, with overnight being better. This will help clean the tank and piping of bacteria. While the mixture is non-toxic at this strength, run a hot water tap the next day until it runs cold then wait an hour and drain the water heater. Last, check the temperature of the hot water as soon as the burner shuts off. If necessary, lower the temperature to 125 degrees. This limits the growth of odor-causing bacteria, limits the formation of scale, is safer for everyone using hot water, and it lowers the operating costs as well.

If you notice the smell in both your hot and cold water then it's probably from  the well water. Hydrogen Sulfide is formed from decomposing underground deposits of organic matter like decaying plants. It can occur in deep or shallow wells and is the result of bacterial action that reduces sulfates in water to hydrogen sulfide. The simple solution for this is shock chlorination to the entire water system - starting from the well, all the way through the distribution lines. Chlorine should be kept in the system for several hours, preferably overnight. If the smell persists than water treatment equipment will be needed.



When water containing sulphur, iron or manganese passes through the granular filter medium, the active insoluble catalyst which it possesses causes the iron or manganese to precipitate in the form of the hydroxide in the mix tank. Then, this flocculent material is filtered out by the granular oxidizing catalyst filter bed. Periodic backwash flushes out the accumulated iron or manganese and the filter bed is again readyto perform its function the filter medium is not consumed in the iron or manganese removal.



1. A P.H. of 6.8 or higher
2. Oil must not be present.

Note: pH correction can be accomplished by using a neutralizing filter.

Q-My water has an orange tint to it. What can I do?
A-The first thing we would recommend would be to have the water tested. The orange tint is usually the result of a high iron content.

Q-"My water has a high iron content. How can I reduce this?"
A-We get  questions about iron more than most other water problems. The method for removal  depends on how much iron is in your system and what type (Ferric or Ferrous)  For removal of  dissolved iron you will need either a water softener or an iron removal system. A water softener will remove up to 6 ppm of iron max, but if used this way the resin will need to be cleaned every once in a while with a resin cleaner like Rust Out or Rez-Up. The less iron the softener has to remove than the better longevity of the water softener resin. If yours is higher than 5 PPM then you will need an iron removal system with special media. Different media would be used for different mineral conditions. Sometimes aeration, Model AIFN can be used. It's not necessarily better than ion resins, but you wouldn't need to regenerate the system with any chemicals. We highly recommend that you have a recent water analysis done by us or with a local
expert before ordering any water treatment system.


Filter should be installed as close as possible to a floor drain, laundry tub, or wherever drain is to be run. However, the installation should comply with all plumbing codes.

Some things to consider:

A. Available flow rate at filter must be adequate for back washing.

B. The filter should be installed to provide untreated water to outside hose bibbs.

C. Do not locate filter where it can freeze.

D. Do not install filter on hot water exceeding 100 degrees F.

E. The installation should be made with a by-pass system of valves that allows the water

filter to be disconnected without having to turn off the whole water supply to the

building. All Alpha units come with a bypass.

F. Static water pressure not to exceed 100 p.s.i.

G. If static water pressure exceeds 100 p.s.i., pressure reducer valve must be installed in

water line before filter.

H. Filter should not be installed on water system where the static water pressure is below

25 p.s.i.

I. Do not install between pump and storage tank.



When filter is completely piped:

1. Open Inlet Valve and slowly fill tank to top with water.

2.*See note on Activated Carbon

3. Turn pointer to BKW (backwash) position.

Allow unit to backwash for 10 minutes

Then turn pointer to SER (service).

*Activated carbon as manufactured and shipped is very light weight and will float in water until it becomes completely saturated. To quickly saturate the activated carbon with water,

proceed as follows:

1. When filter is completely piped turn on water supply to filter tank and for approximately 5 minutes open slightly the Cold water valve at the laundry tub. This will fill filter tank and at the same time

release air from the tank.

2. Close the cold water valve at the laundry tub. At this time do not open any other valve

in the house. This will pressurize the activated carbon to become completely water

saturated and settle into position. Allow filter tank to be pressurized for 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Follow regular instructions for back washing.

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Whole House Filter Specifications

  Alpha Water Systems Products 




Alpha Water Systems Inc.
  Montague, NJ USA